footloose

Take to the Top End with five of the best walks Darwin and Kakadu have to offer

Water and lush greenery
create a cool oasis in
Darwin Botanic Gardens WORDS CAROL WEST
PHOTOGRAPHY ROBERT MUIR

As any traveller knows, the best way to explore a place is to walk it. Going walkabout in the Northern Territory is no exception. We strapped on our boots to bring you five top walks, best undertaken April to September during the dry season.

DARWIN

Walkabout #1: Heritage
Easy – 2–3 hours

Settled in 1869 and named in honour of Charles Darwin, this beautiful state capital has its share of scars. Begin your guided heritage walk at Darwin Harbour, where the water looks inviting – yet last year 200 saltwater crocodiles were snared here. Stroll its Bicentennial Foreshore past memorials commemorating those lost during Japanese bombing raids on Darwin during World War II to Old Darwin Oval, where corroborees were once held by the indigenous Larrakia people.

Wander through Australia’s newest parliament house, noting the open-air Deckchair Cinema along the wharf precinct, before reaching Darwin’s sandstone Courthouse and Police Station built in 1884. Pause at Brown’s Mart Community Art, a former brothel, mining exchange and now an arts centre with theatre.

Next, head into Smith Street Mall where the Old Victoria Hotel can be found among boutiques and cafés. Built in 1890, it’s now a nightclub for backpackers with a photo gallery of early 20th-century flyboys who made it their home-away-from-home.

Finish up with coffee and cake at the Roma Bar, a favourite of Nicole Kidman and Hugh Jackman, during the production of the upcoming film Australia.

Darwin Walking Tours depart daily at 9am and 3.30pm outside Bar Espresso, Ducks Nuts Bar & Grill, 76 Mitchell St, Darwin. Adults AU$25, children AU$15. Tel: +61 (8) 8942 1022. Bicycle tours also available.

Walkabout #2: Botanical to Beach
Easy to Moderate – 3 hours +

For a self-guided walk that covers nature, culture and fun, start at the Darwin Botanic Gardens. Pack a picnic and follow this ramble of rainforest loops, sun-splashed billabongs and waterfalls until you arrive at Mindil Beach.

From here, the Fairweather coastal walk to the Museum & Art Gallery of the Northern Territory forms the boundary between botanical and beach with stunning views.

Then admire the gallery’s beautiful Aboriginal sculptures, ceremonial objects and outstanding collection of “The Dreaming” art on bark.

But first stop is a cold drink at the Cornucopia Museum café overlooking glittering Fannie Bay. Explore the maritime museum collection of old pearling luggers, simple sea gypsy craft and Southeast Asian fishing vessels in full sail.

Returning to Mindil Beach, join the crowds waiting for a shimmering sunset, or shop at the popular Mindil Market (4pm–9pm, every Thursday and Sunday).

Pick up a map of the Botanical to Beach self-guided walking tour from information booths in the park.

KAKADU

The starting point for all visitors to Kakadu National Park is its Bowali Visitors Centre (tel: +61 (8) 8938 1120), where rangers will help identify self-guided walks to suit your ability. From June to October, one- to two-hour ranger-guided tours showcase Kakadu’s highlights.

Walkabout # 3: Nanguluwur
Easy to Moderate – 2 hours

Sandstone outliers
emerge out of the Arnhem
Escarpment during the
Bardedjlidji WalkThe biggest collection of rock art is at Nourlangie. Take the 3.4km return walk through woodlands to Nanguluwur, deep within the sandstone Arnhem Escarpment.

In the late afternoon, warm light ignites the ochre landscape and only the crunch of the gravel track punctuates the silence. The escarpment soars over open caves where Aboriginals lived and painted ochre pigments onto a sandstone “canvas”.

Gaze up to the roof to view a frieze of fish and turtles – great examples of “modern”

X-ray art. “Hands up High” is a vivid example of stencil-like rock art that’s been around for at least 20,000 years.

Those looking for a strenuous extension, can pick up the Barrk bushwalk trail and follow the orange triangular markers for a three- to four-hour 6km trek over rugged terrain. It’s best to wear pants as prickly spinifex will scratch bare legs. The final stretch offers spectacular views of Nourlangie’s western cliffs.

Walkabout #4 : Bardedjilidji
Easy – 2 hours

Bardedjilidji means walking track in the local Aboriginal language and this 2.5km sandstone walk is one of Kakadu’s most interesting. The narrow grassy track passes spectacular sandstone outcrops that are layered like pancake stacks and weathered into pillars, arches and caves. Providing shelter for animals such as rock wallabies, geckos and bats, geologists believe they were formed around 1,500 million years ago.

Pockets of monsoon vine forest, paperbark woodlands and wetland areas parallel the East Alligator River where crocodiles lurk beneath. Colourful desert daisies, rock roses and waratahs spring out of the partially charred landscape.

Mid-way along the Bardedjilidji track, cross Catfish Creek by a low footbridge and take the 6.5km Sandstone and River Bush Track. This four-hour extension passes East Alligator River floodplains, paperbark forests, billabongs, sandstone towers, dunes and monsoon forests and is classified as moderate.

Walkabout #5: Ubirr
Moderate – 2 hours

As you climb 250m to
the plateau overlooking
Ubirr take the time to
soak up the grand vistasKakadu’s collection of ancient Aboriginal art has made it one of only 20 World Heritage sites of natural and cultural significance to be conserved for all time. At Ubirr, a 1km circular track incorporates several ancestral Aboriginal art sites painted an estimated 20,000 years ago.

From here, a 250m steep climb branches upwards to a plateau leveled over eons of time high above the broad floodplains. From the top, the spirit of the land surrounds you and a sign reads: “The soul of a person is born from the land and returns to it after death”.

Walking Tips for Kakadu

• Always wear a hat, sturdy walking shoes, clothing to protect from the sun, sunscreen and insect repellent.
• Carry a minimum of two litres of water and energy foods for longer walks.
• Walk slowly, rest often and keep a safe distance from animals, insects and snakes.
• Longer walks should not be undertaken alone.
• Never climb over barriers: they’re there for your protection.