one divine day

Discover Visakha Bucha Day in Thailand this 19 May when devotees throng the temples and visitors get caught in the reverent mood

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY MARK PARREN TAYLOR

With an elegant symmetry that befits the great teacher himself, Visakha Bucha Day commemorates the birth, enlightenment and passing away of Buddha. It’s a time when Buddhists gather in temples to celebrate the “Holy Triple Gem” of the Buddha, as Dharma (his teachings) and the Sangha (his disciples – monks and nuns) are known. The devout wear white, abstain from meat and spend the day making offerings and listening to monks reciting Gautama Buddha’s verses. No matter how religious they may consider themselves, most Buddhists will spend some time during this day to contemplate the life and words of the “Awakened One”. We show you a few ways to experience Buddha and Buddhism in Thailand.

AYUTTHAYA
The forlorn, crumbling beauty of the ancient capital Ayutthaya is enthralling. For many, Wat Mahatat’s rows of headless Buddha images – damaged by attacking Burmese and later bounty hunters – is dismaying, but it makes those times when you do come across an undamaged statue all the more inspiring.
Wat Mahatat, Thanon Chee Kun, Ayutthaya. Admission Bht 30 (AU$1).

OFFERINGS
Supranee and her boyfriend visit Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) each Saturday. “We like to sprinkle holy water on our heads within sight of the Emerald Buddha, and then we apply gold leaf to a Buddha nearby. In this way, we show Buddha how much we value him – and each other.”
Wat Phra Kaew, Thanon Na Phralan. Admission Bht 250 (AU$8.60).

VEGETARIAN FESTIVAL
Buddhists respect many gods – the Hindu Ganesha, for example, is widely revered, and Taoist deities frequently find a home in Buddhist wats (temples). They also show little hesitation in joining forces with Taoist Chinese on Phuket to celebrate the extraordinary Vegetarian Festival each year and parade Emperor Gods through the island’s streets.
Jia Chai (Vegetarian Festival), first 10 days of the tenth lunar month (28 Sep to 7 Oct 2008). Phuket town, Phuket.

LOTUS AND GOLD
Lotus flowers that symbolise the purity of Buddha’s thoughts are used extensively in temples during prayer, as a means of scattering holy water, and as offerings. Gold leaf is rubbed onto images to both venerate Buddha and show it has no value on earth. It’s not advisable to smell the flower as this is thought to detract from its value, but it’s perfectly acceptable to rub any wisps of gold leaf that cling to your fingers onto your face or hair.

AMULETS
Amulets – small plaques or encased images, often of Buddha – bring protection and strength to those who wear or carry them. Maharat Market sees thousands traded every day: many of the simple, clay variety go for a few baht, while some examples change hands for vast sums. Collectors examine the quality of amulets with loupes and huddle in groups to discuss their finds. Maharat Market, Thanon Maharat, Bangkok.

GOOD HEALTH
After the destruction of historical medical texts during the sacking of the former capital Ayutthaya in 1776, Rama III made Wat Pho a university for Thai medicine and massage. To this day, the temple is renowned as one of the finest schools of traditional Thai massage in the country, and its doors are open to weary tourists in need of a little recuperative pummelling.
Wat Pho, Thanon Thai Wang, Bangkok. Admission Bht 50 (AU$1.80).

OLD FAITHS REBORN
Animist worship predates Buddhism in Thailand by millennia, but Lak Muang – the City Pillar, the central point of Bangkok believed to be the residence of the city’s guardian spirits – demonstrates how ancient religions have been incorporated by Thais into the broader Buddhist faith. Lak Muang resembles a Buddhist wat in almost all ways: the temple decoration is indistinguishable and votive offerings and the manner of worship is almost identical. Elsewhere in the compound, Buddha images are worshipped in a demonstration that Buddhist Thais consider deities (including Hindu Ganesha, animist spirits and Chinese Taoist gods) to live in a similar realm to Buddha, even though they can never be his equal.
Cnr Th Ratchadamnoen Nai and Th Lak Muang. Admission free.

TEMPLE OF DAWN
Expat Kiwi Janice has lived in Thailand for 12 years. For her, Wat Arun is Bangkok’s finest Buddhist landmark. But it is not the porcelain-encrusted prang (Khmer-style tower) that attracts her. “I think that Wat Arun needs to be viewed from across the river at dawn”, she says. “The cloister of seated Buddha statues is enchanting and never fails to make me feel spiritual.”
Wat Arun, Thanon Arun Amarin, Bangkok. Admission Bht 20 (AU$0.70).

Photo: David Tang
RECLINING BUDDHA
There are more than one thousand Buddha images in Wat Pho, but for many, the 46-metre-long Reclining Buddha is one of Bangkok’s highlights. The gilded statue represents the Buddha’s passing, parinirvana, with outstretched feet that are inlaid with mother of pearl motifs representing the 108 auspicious characteristics of Buddha.
Wat Pho, Thanon Thai Wang, Bangkok. Admission Bht 50 (AU$1.80).

Dos and Don’ts

• Dress respectfully at temples, this means no bare shoulders or legs, and remove hats and shoes when entering
• Keep your feet pointed away from a Buddha image and off chairs and tables
• Do not touch a monk or ask them to touch you
• Do not criticise the king or the royal family; stand when the national anthem is played
• Don’t lose your temper