WHERE RAINFOREST MEETS REEF

Far North Queensland’s Daintree region is the only place on earth where two World Heritage sites exist side by side. We hit the road to soak up these natural wonders

WORDS JOANNA HALL

Photos: Tourism QueenslandIt sounds like an impossible scenario: you step out of the world’s oldest tropical rainforest onto a pristine beach and find yourself wading in crystalline water among colourful fish. Tropical birds call from the rainforest and not far out to sea is the seventh Wonder of the World, the Great Barrier Reef. But this isn’t a script for a big budget blockbuster, this is the Daintree region of North Queensland where two of the world’s most complex ecosystems meet.

Nature and wildlife are the star attractions here, and for anyone who loves the outdoors, few places on earth can match what the Daintree can offer. Thanks to improved roads, driving is the best way to experience the multitude of natural wonders.

Cairns to Mossman

After flying into Cairns, most visitors head north on the scenic one-hour drive to Port Douglas. From here, you can discover the Daintree National Park, home to rainforest thought to be more than 100 million years old. By way of comparison, the Amazon rainforest is a mere seven million. You should allow at least two or three days to gain full appreciation of the Daintree rainforest’s diversity and tranquility.

Mossman Gorge, 30 minutes north of Port Douglas, is the perfect introduction to the rainforest with its well sign-posted walking tracks, deep gorges and lush green forest.

The traditional owners, the Mossman Gorge Aboriginal Community (Kuku Yalanji Dreamtime, tel: +61 (7) 4098 2595), offer walking tours. This is a great way to experience its beauty, and learn about the Kuku Yulangi people and their culture.

And it’s here, on the Mossman River right in the heart of the rainforest, that you can find the Treehouse Restaurant (Silky Oaks Lodge, Finlayvale Rd, Mossman, tel: +61 (7) 4098 1666), the place to go for a special lunch or dinner.

Mossman to the Daintree

The idyllic Daintree offers great
exploring
photo: Tourism QueenslandHead north for another 20 minutes and a whole new rainforest magic presents itself. One of the last remaining car ferries in Australia crosses the Daintree River into the Cape Tribulation region.

After the crossing, the road winds beneath the rainforest canopy, up over the Alexandra Range and into the heart of the Daintree. Along the way there are stunning lookouts, countless creeks, waterfalls and kilometres of rainforest set in among the mountain range fringing the beaches – there’s a photo op’ at almost every turn in the road.

A cruise offers a different perspectiveThe Daintree Discovery Centre (off Cape Tribulation Rd, +61 (7) 4098 9171) is about 10km north of the crossing. It has a system of boardwalks, a 23-metre high canopy tower, an aerial walkway and an information display centre. You can literally walk through, and on top of, the rainforest without damaging the root systems.

The flightless but fierce
cassowaryThis area is a critical habitat for the endangered cassowary, and even though they’re rare, the flightless two-metre tall birds do cross the roads. We spotted one just before sunset one day and were careful not to approach it, as it’s famously bad tempered with dagger-like claws on each foot.

A few kilometres past the Discovery Centre are other distractions, including the Daintree Ice Cream Factory, Daintree Tea Plantation and an insect museum. Add to that some pristine deserted beaches like Thornton and Coconut Beach, and it’s easy to see how a two-day trip to this area can easily turn into a four-day stay.

When hunger strikes, Crocodylus Village (Buchanan Creek Rd, tel: +61 (7) 4098 9166) is a great spot for an inexpensive meal, and it also has a rainforest bar.

Daintree to Cape Tribulation

Swimming is not permitted
in croc country Photo: Ben HallTo get a good look at the infamous crocodiles in their natural habitat, it’s hard to beat a cruise along Cooper Creek (Cape Tribulation Wilderness Cruises, tel: +61 (7) 4033 2052).

The local species of saltwater crocodiles, or “salties”, can grow up to seven metres in length and are widely regarded as the most dangerous in the world. On the day we ventured down Cooper Creek the bright sunshine brought out five female salties, from two to four metres in length.

Our guide, Alan Barwick, told us that they recognise the individual sound of an engine. And having had more than 10 years of listening to our boat plying Cooper Creek, the crocodiles are more than happy to sun themselves as we cruise past and swim within metres of the boat.

“Keep your hands inside the boat, and don’t stick your head over the side,” Barwick warns. And, as if anyone on board needed to be told, swimming is not permitted. Croc sightings are more common in the winter months of June, July and August when the reptiles need to sun themselves for warmth but in summer they can be difficult to spot. “That’s when they dive underwater. But most people understand if wildlife doesn’t come out to play – that’s just the way it goes sometimes,” says Barwick.

Get lost in the lusciousness of the
Daintree aboard the Marrdja
BoardwalkThe Marrdja Boardwalk north of Cooper Creek is another great way to access the rainforest without damaging the fragile environment. It’s a one-kilometre loop with a viewing platform overlooking Noah Creek, and every stage in the evolution of the rainforest plants is represented here.

Native birds such as the little kingfisher, azure kingfisher and the scrub turkey tend to be quite shy but can be spotted on a good day, and distinctive lizards such as the Boyd’s forest dragon literally hang out among the trees.

After visiting this pristine part of the world, take a table at Café on Sea (Thornton Beach, tel: +61 (7) 4098 9118) for an inexpensive meal with unblemished Coral Sea views, and ponder venturing out onto the Great Barrier Reef… but that’s another story.

Laurent Pedemay
Executive chef at Silky Oaks Lodge
“We love the area for the relaxed lifestyle and everything it has to offer: nature, rainforest, ocean and the reef, and the close proximity to the outback. When I do find some free time, I go diving on the Great Barrier Reef. As a chef, the main attraction for me is the diversity of the fresh produce that is virtually on our doorstep. Some of the best pineapple in Australia is right here in Mossman. We also get great herbs and hydroponic produce.”

Alan Curtis
Local resident and senior guide at the Daintree Discovery Centre for 10 years
“I love the Daintree for her mystery. No two days are ever the same, from her languid, tranquil mornings, to the buzzing croaking cacophony of sounds during the day and her thunderous steamy tropical nights. Never knowing whether just around the corner you might chance upon a bird, frog or butterfly you’ve not seen before, or perhaps even a new species of plant. And I love my job – it provides me with a chance to share with others the majesty and excitement of one of the most amazing biodiversities in Australia. Live anywhere else? Not on your nelly! I am home.”