Deep sea treasures

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY TIM ROCK

Find out where
the fish are biting in
some of the region’s
richest dive sites

The underwater world is a wondrous universe of exotic fish and mammals, as well as spectacular coloured corals. With 2008 designated the International Year of the Reef, there’s no better time to discover the joys of scuba diving and snorkelling. Best of all, some of the most fascinating marine environments in the world are on our doorstep. Come and take a dip with us as we celebrate some of the region’s most exciting dive sites.

Bali, Indonesia

Did you know Bali is one of diving’s best-kept secrets, with one of the Indo-Pacific’s most diverse marine environments? You can dive off the east coast’s black sand shores while right off Tulamben’s shoreline is a World War II shipwreck called the USAT Liberty. Local women carry your tanks on their heads to the beach entry point, from where you walk in and swim to a wreck now covered with coral. It’s a safe dive as the wreck is somewhat broken, so divers only need to swim around the outside to see schools of bigeye jacks and bumphead parrotfish inside. Tulamben Bay also has low-profile reefs with ribbon eels and big clams.

For real adventure, head offshore to Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Penida for a look at the rare mola mola, a huge ocean sunfish. Appearing from July through October, they can be found in some tricky current-fed and chilly waters. Go with an experienced dive operation so you look for them in the safest conditions. But seeing one is worth the effort – they can be over four metres high from fin tip to fin tip and weigh 1,000kg! Accessible from Bali.

Western Australia

Perth offers several possibilities along its rich and vital coastline. Right off the capital’s coast is Rottnest Island Marine Reserve, a popular holiday spot that hosts around 360 fish species, including manta rays, plus healthy corals and sea grass beds. Snorkellers love this island, as do more experienced divers who can explore Rottnest’s 13 historic shipwrecks. Whale watching can be done here in winter when the humpback whale passes through the Indian Ocean.
One hour south of Perth in Rockingham you can snorkel with wild dolphins. Dive masters use underwater scooters to play with the dolphins and lead them right to you so you can observe their graceful moves.
A road trip up to Exmouth’s Ningaloo Reef in March or April can mean an encounter with the world’s largest fish, a whale shark. When booking a whale shark tour, pick a company that shares its spotter plane and works with other operators, which will increase your chances of spotting a whale shark and other creatures like dugongs and manta rays. Accessible from Perth.

Queensland

The Great Barrier Reef, which runs the length of the northern coast, is the largest and most famous reef system in the world. Marine enthusiasts are spoilt for choice here, with experiences ranging from snorkelling with sea turtles to visiting Australia’s most famous, fish-filled shipwreck, the Yongala. The wreck is home to sea anemones with beautiful “Nemo” clownfish and schooling jacks, butterflyfish and scad, while the currents attract sharks, including tiger sharks. Accessible from Townsville and Cairns. For beaches and diving, try the Whitsunday Islands where visibility is commonly
30m. Diving is year round and sea life is diverse with 1,500 species of fish found on the reefs and coral walls of the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park. You can enjoy snorkelling at gorgeous Whitehaven Beach, dive from a land-based operation or take a sailboat to the best dive sites. Accessible from Whitsunday Coast (Proserpine) and Hamilton Island.

Langkawi, Malaysia

Malaysia is also known for its rich reefs, many newly developed marine parks and tiny critters. Among Malaysia’s small creatures are shell-less snails called nudibranchs, which thrive here in great diversity and are some of the most colourful in the world. Then there are sea horses and sedentary creatures like frogfish, in black, yellow and fire engine red hues.
One site that both divers and snorkellers enjoy is Pulau Payar Marine Park, south of Langkawi island.
It encompasses four small reef-fringed islands and is a day trip from Langkawi’s Kuah. The famous Coral Garden dive site is full of schooling tropical fish and healthy coral. More experienced divers will enjoy Pulau Segantang’s wall dive where large fish like barracuda and nurse sharks can be seen. Even non-divers can enjoy this park as there are observation platforms and an undersea observatory. Accessible from Kuala Lumpur.

Honolulu,Hawaii

The start of the year is humpback whale season off the shores of Oahu. Observation boats go out on a daily basis and you can watch mothers with their young and big males, who breach and slap the water to get the attention of females.

For a real thrill, head up to North Shore where you can cage snorkel with sharks five kilometres offshore. You’ll sit in the safety of a cage as big ocean sharks circle around. Sand sharks, Galapagos sharks and even an occasional tiger shark come in to the buoy and swim right up to the cage. It’s an adrenaline-pumper but quite safe. Accessible from Honolulu.

Phuket, Thailand

The famous dive sites of Anemone Reef and colourful Shark Point are just a short boat ride offshore of bustling Phuket. Mild currents feed the reefs here, ensuring soft coral bloom, and attract thousands of small schooling fish that give the reef a kaleidoscopic effect. Anemone Reef has stunning purple-bottomed sea anemones, while Shark Point attracts prettily patterned leopard nurse sharks.

Phuket’s dive sites are all day trips and can also include a dive to the new undersea park, complete with a submerged Thai temple and life-sized elephant statues. There’s also an easily accessible sunken ferry that attracts huge shoals of fish. Accessible from Phuket.

Nha Trang, Vietnam

Ho Chi Minh City is known for its great food and shopping, but a short flight east to Nha Trang opens up the world of the small and unusual. Macro critters – ornate pipefish, decorator crabs and hiding gobies – all call the reefs and sandy flats off Vietnam’s islands and shores home. The diving here is new, so sites are being discovered all the time. There’s also a new sense of marine awareness here, and some reserves and parks are newly established or in the works. Marine parks like Con Dao archipelago offer a chance to see sea turtles and the elusive dugong sea cow. Accessible from Ho Chi Minh City.

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