a taste of paradise

Bali is known for its sunshine and surf, but did you know it also boasts exotic cuisine? We asked Melbourne expat Janet De Neefe where she feasts

Photo: Don Jensen

WORDS ANNE LOH
PHOTOGRAPHY LESTER LEDESMA

Janet De Neefe moved to Bali from Melbourne more than two decades ago. Since then she’s opened Casa Luna Restaurant and Cooking School, Honeymoon Guesthouse, written the autobiography Fragrant Rice and, in 2003, launched the Ubud Writers & Readers Festival.

What brought you to Bali and what made you stay on?
I first came to Bali on a family holiday in 1974 and it was love at first sight; I was charmed by this magical island. I came back 10 years later and fell in love with my husband the second day!

Can you explain Australians’ affinity with the island of Bali?
Proximity has a lot to do with the Australian is more important than anything else. They will spend days preparing for ceremonies or attending family duties. To share in one of these ceremonies from start to finish, especially a cremation, changes your life.

With Fragrant Rice under your belt, could you fill more books about Bali?
There are many books still to be written about Bali. I have actually started a second book – a novel – but who knows when I will finish it!

Why did you start Casa Luna Restaurant and Cooking School?
My aim was to inform the world about a wonderful cuisine and intriguing culture. I felt it was my job to be the go-between and let visitors know the complexities of Balinese life through eating together and learning about the tastes of Bali.

What still surprises you about the Balinese?
Their reverence for religion and family, which love affair with Bali. But I think there is also a deeper connection relating to the laid-back nature of both nationalities. The playful, joking nature of the Balinese is akin to the Australian persona. Many Australians have developed life-long friendships with Balinese families here. Some have helped educate their children or even pay for ceremonies.

Chef, cooking teacher, author… what other challenges do you want to take on?
We have bought a small new hotel and so I will start to work on interiors for this, as well as promotional ideas. I am also planning some new cooking classes to run.

Tell us five of your favourite places for Balinese food.

Ibu Oka

a basket of crispy pork

Located opposite the Ubud Palace, eating at this warung (local eatery) is purely local-style dining. Tables are communal and the place is a bit unkempt but the meal is truly wonderful. The sweetest, most tender slices of suckling pig are served with the ubiquitous sambal (chili paste), trimmings and roasted coconut vegetables.

Warung Wardani

assorted treats from
Warung Wardani

Head here for nasi campur (mixed rice) that includes satay, roasted coconut vegetables, prawn fritters, spicy chicken and sambal. This is one of the neatest warungs on the island – Ibu Wardani runs a tight ship and keeps her staff on the ball.

Nasi Ayan Kedewatan

Famous for its nasi campur, which includes roast chicken with lashings of sambal. This place attracts Balinese from all over the island and there is always a bank-up of Mercedes, Harley-Davidsons and bicycles outside.

dine well in Nasi Ayan Kedewatan’s garden

I felt it was my job to be the go-between and let visitors know the complexities ofBalinese life through eating together and learning about the tastes of Bali.

Ubud Market

gourmet grannies at
Ubud MarketTry rice porridge and ketupat (rice cake) with peanut sauce, served by the Ubud granny near the west entrance of the market, early in the morning. My favourite is served with steamed seasonal vegetables mixed with sambal, on a waxy banana leaf. The fragrance and flavour of the sambal is sublime! My other favourite is the ketupat tossed with peanut sauce and steamed vegetables bought downstairs near the banana and jackfruit sellers. The hint of fresh lime leaves and kencur (white ginger) sets it apart.

Ikan Bakar Cianjur

For fried chicken and all sorts of fish dishes. This is actually West-Javanese style but it’s so delicious – the fish in banana leaf is to-diefor! This noisy restaurant employs just about every design feature known to man, including glo-mesh chandelier lights, running water and bamboo. Try the wok-fried pumpkin leaves and the green coconut juice in the faux green coconut china cup.

Four more for the road – great Indonesian restaurants

Made’s Warung II
The boss lady’s long menu at this Balinese institution offers good Indonesian and international cuisines and the ambiance is fun, friendly and informal. The original branch in Kuta is nice, but the one in Seminyak is even better.

Sate Bali
This is a small, casual place with wonderful food. The sate are varied and delicious, and they also serve rijsttafel (rice table) – a set menu of numerous dishes, which is a great introduction to a variety of flavours. Great value. Sign up for a cooking class.

Warung Batavia
This shack doesn’t look like much but locals, expats and tourists know this is the place for nasi padang (Malaysian mixed rice) food. The long tables mean you can meet people easily as you enjoy the excellent (and not too spicy) food.

Bumbu Bali
Sublime ambience and extraordinary food. Award-winning chef Heinz von Holzen serves the best of Bali’s cuisine – normally saved for feasts, ceremonies and special occasions – try the roast duck in banana leaf, roast suckling pig or rijsttafel. Learn his kitchen tricks at the cooking school.

FIND IT:

Ibu Oka $$
Jln Suweta, opposite Ubud Palace, Ubud
Warung Wardani $$
Jln Yudistira, Denpasar
Nasi Ayan Kedewatan $
Jln Raya Kedewatan, the outskirts of Ubud
Ubud Market $
Jln Raya Ubud, Ubud
Ikan Bakar Cianjur $$
Renon area, Denpasar
Made’s Warung II $$$
Jln Raya Seminyak, Seminyak, tel: +62 (361) 732 130
Sate Bali $$$
Jln Oberoi 22, Kerobokan, tel: +62 (361) 736 734
Warung Batavia $$
Jln Raya Kerobokan, Kerobokan, tel: +62 (361) 731 6411
Bumbu Bali $$$
Jln Pratama, Tanjung Benoa, Nusa Dua, tel: +62 (361) 774502

Price range is for one person’s meal
$ Rp. 5,000–19,000 AU$0.70–AU$2.30
$$ Rp. 20,000–39,000 AU$2.50–AU$4.70
$$$ Rp. 40,000–99,000 AU$4.80–AU$12
$$$ Rp.100,000–200,000 AU$12.20–AU$25