Bill Granger.

Meet the man who wears many hats, but is still best known for his creamy scrambled eggs

WORDS SUDI PIGOTT

For self-taught cook Bill Granger, life as one of Australia’s top chefs is a juggle between restaurateur, TV culinary star, author and dad. This easy-going guy opened his first restaurant, bills, in Sydney’s Darlinghurst when he was just 22. Now he has three restaurants in the city and has just published his sixth book, Holiday.

You’re a busy man! What are your priorities these days – cooking, writing cookbooks or TV shows?
The restaurants remain my priority. It’s crucial to me that visitors to bills should have a memorable experience. I’m always looking at ways to make dining at bills even more pleasurable. I enjoy filming, especially as my producer is my wife Nathalie so we get to spend time together. I am always trying new ingredients and flavour combinations as I research the TV series and cookbooks, and this inspires the restaurant menus. It’s all inextricably linked.

What do you think is the secret formula to bills’ ongoing success?
We specialise in comfort food and, however adventurous diners may be, easy eating is always popular. Although, there are some dishes we could never take off the menu, such as the creamy scrambled eggs, ricotta hotcakes or chicken rissoles, we do tweak them. And the menu is always gently evolving too, so there’s plenty for those craving something new. I think the friendly no-fuss ambience is part of its enduring appeal.

For the tourist wondering whether to eat at bills Darlinghurst, Surry Hills or Woollahra, what do you advise?
Darlinghurst is the original so it has to be tried. Woollahra is brilliant for a sunny, long lunch and Surry Hills is the funky, younger sibling.

Where do you eat when you travel?
I like variety – from simple noodle bars to extraordinarily sophisticated fine dining restaurants where the chefs experiment with molecular gastronomy. It keeps my tastebuds on alert.

What’s your secret to feeding fussy kids?
Be relaxed about mealtimes. If children don’t feel like eating dinner, maybe they’re just tired and will eat a huge breakfast. But do give them the same meal as the grown-ups – it makes them feel more included.

Are there any trends emerging this season you’re going to incorporate?
I’m especially intrigued by the Japanese emphasis on gelatinous textures and am looking at ways to introduce this to my menus this summer.

How do you like to spend Christmas day? What is your favourite, sure-fire menu?
After a frenzy of present opening with my daughters, I like to start the day with a swim. I’ll keep things simple and easy: prawn cocktails with chilli coriander mayonnaise; a hoisin and plum-glazed ham served with a green bean and pomegranate salad. There has to be a passionfruit and mango trifle, and of course, traditional plum pudding with brandy sauce!

Which restaurant would you recommend for Christmas day lunch?
Café di Stasio in St Kilda, Melbourne – it’s relaxed and feels like a home away from home; or Icebergs at Bondi – there’s something very satisfying about stuffing yourself in front of all the beautiful people sunning themselves on Bondi Beach.

Tell us about your new book Holiday.
The book recaptures the memories of the best food I’ve enjoyed on holiday, whether at home or away.

Describe yourself in three words.
Other people have called me “sunshine on a plate”. I’d say straightforward, pure and fun.

What’s next on your plate?
I’m opening bills café in Shirigahama in Tokyo next March. It will be a kind of bills beach house by the sea in the Shonan area.

Photos by Petrina Tinslay from Holiday by Bill Granger, published by Murdoch Books, AU$49.95.