desert discovery

Explore the true nature of Kakadu National Park with these Aboriginal experiences

WORDS CAROLINE MCCONNACHIE

The sound of silence is yours at Ubirr
Photos: Tourism Northern Territory

While Darwin has its charms, the sparkling jewel of the Northern Territory is without question magnificent Kakadu National Park. In this dramatic environment you can find numerous terrains: wetlands, tidal flats and billabongs, monsoon forests and savanna woodlands, and the sandstone escarpments of the Arnhem Land Plateau, all buzzing with exotic wildlife. To get a deeper appreciation, let these tours by its traditional landowners guide your way.

It’s tempting but don’t test the water
The Yellow Water Cruise (tel: + 61 (8) 8979 0145, AU$55 adult, AU$30 child) explores the South Alligator River floodplain from sunrise to sunset and offers fascinating insights into the Park’s nature and Aboriginal culture. Our cheeky guide reminds us there are rules to obey, because “I could have you eaten”. We’re free to wander around the boat, but not to hurl anything in the water. Within minutes we spot among the water lilies the billabong’s main attraction: the fearsome estuarine crocodile. This one’s nearly twice the length of the tallest passenger. “Do we have any bird nerds on
An Aboriginal guide with
a traditional spear board?” we’re asked. The iconic, bandy-legged Jabiru busies itself spear fishing, a Jacana balances on lotus leaves, while whistling plumed ducks apparently have an “identity crisis”: they dislike water and don’t quack. It’s a privilege to be floating through this magical setting, learning about Kakadu’s hardy wildlife while gaining an understanding of how the traditional landowners survive in this treacherous environment.

The Guluyambi Cruise (tel: 1800 089 113, AU$40 adult, AU$20 child) sets off down East Alligator River, from May to October. On this tidal river you can see more crocs and learn secrets of the native flora and fauna, such as where to find natural mosquito repellent and the many uses for paperbark trees. The highlight of the trip is alighting briefly on the sandy shores of Arnhem Land – a rare treat as under normal circumstances you need a permit to enter – and being instructed in spear throwing and weaving the pandanus leaf, besides learning about traditional culture. The crocodiles are big, but the guide’s stories are bigger, such as the one about the seven-metre saltie seen yesterday.

A long neck turtle makes
a delicious dinner in
Arnhem LandConsolidate your lessons with a trip to Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre (5km from Jabiru, free entry). The building houses a wealth of information on Kakadu’s Aboriginal people and their lives. Discover elegant magpie goosewing fans, intricate fishing nets, the complex system of marriage, and black and white photos of Aboriginals as stockmen and immersed in the back-breaking buffalo trade.

Visit Kakadu’s Bowali Cultural Centre and talk to the staff about camping spots and conditions of Kakadu’s unsealed roads, and visit its flora and fauna gallery. You can look behind the scenes at park management and their occasional near-death experiences, and collect a what’s-on guide detailing ranger talks and activities (held May to September).

Sure, the man-eating reptiles do draw in the crowds, but another reason Kakadu teems with visitors is the rock art, some dating back to 20,000 years ago. It is a major reason why this beautiful park became World Heritage-listed in 1992. Many are off-limits to the public, but two rock art galleries that are open offer insight into how indigenous people lived here traditionally.

Rock art at Nourlangie Rock
A scenic 1km-circuit takes you round the art sites of Ubirr in the park’s north-east. Ubirr’s main gallery is a smorgasbord of edible delights – saratoga fish, barramundi, snake-necked turtle, goanna and wallaby – depicted in solid ochre paintings, hand stencils, and x-ray style drawings. Nestled in there is a picture of a pipe-toting man dressed in a white suit. Elsewhere, stories of the Dreaming are portrayed, some of which are sacred sites, such as the depiction of the rainbow serpent. Time your visit with sundown and be rewarded with views over the shimmering wetlands.

The more central Nourlangie is equally fascinating, with a range of drawing styles; there’s even a tall ship showing the arrival of Europeans. For the more adventurous at heart, a spectacular four-hour circuit takes you from Anbangbang’s accessible art sites, through diverse terrain, and via Nanguluwur Gallery (but if in a hurry there’s a separate 1km path).

A rich harvest of bush tucker
In the dry season, from May to September, seek out Kakadu Culture Camp (tel: 1800 089 113). Guides are local Aboriginal people, and many also work as park rangers. Take their after-dark boat cruise (AU$47 adult, AU$30 child) in croc-infested Djarradjin Billabong. Or sign up for Kakadu by Night (AU$149 adult, AU$110 child), which includes foraging for bush-tucker, dinner around a campfire and a hands-on lesson in weaving. They also have posh safari tents (from AU$72 twin share).

Kakadu is Aboriginal-owned land and is a truly amazing landscape. These cultural tours provide a fascinating insight into the people who have lived here for millennia and how they made it their home.

HOW TO:
From Darwin, Kakadu National Park is a straightforward drive 250km east. The park is 20,000 km², but access to many parts is via corrugated unsealed roads suitable for 4WDs only. The torrential rains of the wet season, November ’til March, restrict visitors somewhat, but highlights such as Yellow Water and Ubirr rock art remain open year round. Swimming is banned or discouraged in some places due to the prevalence of ravenous saltwater crocodiles. If you run out of supplies, Jabiru town in the park’s north is great for re-stocking.

MIND YOUR MANNERS
by Kakadu National Park

Kakadu’s Aborigines have their own set of social behaviours and customs. Please consider these while visiting Kakadu.
• Religion and ceremony are important. Show respect by not entering sacred sites, ceremonial sites or burial grounds. Family business and ceremonies may interrupt scheduled tours.
• Traditionally, Aboriginals don’t greet each other every time they meet. However, most are familiar with non-Aboriginal people doing so and may expect a hello.
• Aboriginals appreciate privacy. It is good manners not to enter living areas and not to take photographs of Aboriginals without permission.
• Some Aboriginals find eye contact uncomfortable.
• In Aboriginal culture, it is important to listen with respect. Consider your questions wisely as there are some subjects you may not have the right to ask about.
• It is polite to say good-bye when leaving. In Kakadu, the Aboriginal word for this is boh boh (pronounced bor bor).