South Australia’s capital sheds its “City of Churches” image

WORDS SHERIDEN RHODES

John Dowie Fountain, Victoria
Square at night
Photolibrary/Ken Stepnell“Hip” and “Adelaide” aren’t two words you typically see in the same sentence. But the joke’s on the rest of us – Adelaidians have long known what a treasure their city is, with its clean air, laid-back lifestyle, beautiful beaches and great food and wine. It has a sophisticated side too: stylish bars and restaurants, groovy cafés and plenty of boutique shopping. Here’s the lowdown.

Shop

For funky fashion and jewellery stores, start at Rundle Street and Ebenezer Place. Sprinkled among the wine bars, pubs and restaurants, you’ll find Hero Designs (2 Ebenezer Pl, City, tel: +61 (8) 8223 1626), Midwest Trader (Shop 1, 4–10 Ebenezer Pl, City, tel: +61 (8) 8223 6606) and Miss Gladys Sym Choon (235a Rundle St, City, tel: +61 (8) 8223 1500). Hindley Street in Adelaide’s west end is the haunt of uni students, and for good reason: it has a fab mix of much-loved book and music shops, contemporary fashion stores, and bars and cafés. At the other end of the scale is King William Road south of the CBD, Adelaide’s answer to High Street Armadale in Melbourne. Its chic boutiques, cafés, tempting chocolateries and modern restaurants are firm favourites with the well-heeled.

 

Adelaide Convention Centre
SATC/Brett Sheridan

Bargain-hunters, meanwhile, should visit the top-label clothing seconds and clearance shops on Glen Osmond Road in Eastwood. Gouger Street – smack-bang in the bustling heart of the city – is great for vintage pieces; check out Central Market Dress Ups (59 Gouger St, City, tel: +61 (8) 8231 6500) and Funky Finds (136 Gouger St, City, tel: +61 (8) 8231 4279).

For elegant European antiques, 20th century Scandinavian furniture – even retro 1970s design – make a beeline for Magill Road in Norwood, just a few kilometres east of Adelaide’s CBD. Make sure you stop at Khai Liew (164–66 Magill Rd, tel: +61 (8) 8362 1076): Malaysian-born Liew’s pieces, with their beautiful timbers and simple lines, rival any Scandi classics. We fell for the cutely named “Love Cube” table and chair set, which was originally designed to be the centrepiece of a Sydney resident’s private wine cellar. Also worth a browse are the retro Rock ’n’ Rustic (187a Magill Rd, Maylands, tel: +61 (8) 8363 3446), Mid Century Modern (129
Miss Gladys Sym Choon
SATC/Adam Bruzzone Magill Rd, Maylands, tel: +61 (8) 8363 3413) and Tanjent Traders (1a Margaret St, Norwood, tel: +61 (8) 8332 9161).

 

The nearby Parade at Norwood is cherished by locals for its cafés, restaurants, fashion houses and one-of-a-kind exclusive boutiques. And for complete culinary bliss right in the heart of Adelaide’s leafiest, swankiest suburb, Melbourne Street in North Adelaide is the place to go.

Eat

From cheap-and-cheerful to high-end gastronomy, Adelaide offers the full dining spectrum. Start with breakfast at the cosy Zest Café (2a Sussex St, tel: +61 (8) 8295 3599) in the beachside town of Glenelg. We recommend the basil pesto eggs if they’re listed on the specials board; the tasty risotto hotcakes with salsa are another house specialty. Citrus (199 Hutt St, City, tel: +61 (8) 8224 0100) also does great Italian-inspired brekkies, while the Store (157 Melbourne St, North Adelaide, tel: +61 (8) 8431 6999) takes a different approach, with dishes like ricotta and spring onion griddle cakes and steamed banana pudding.

Sunset at The Mount Lofty Summit
Restaurant and Café
SATC/Adam Bruzzone

Contenders for best coffee in Adelaide include Pranzo (46 Exchange Pl, City, tel: +61 (8) 8231 0661), Adelaide Coffee Bar (73 Grenfell St, City, tel: +61 (8) 8227 2001) and Cibo Espresso, Adelaide’s very own coffee chain. But for a quintessential Adelaide coffee experience, grab a cup in iconic Lucia’s in the Adelaide Central Market: it’s celebrating its 50th birthday this year. If coffee’s not your thing, wander over for a pot of steaming chai at the T Bar, also in the market off Gouger Street.

Want to splash out at dinner? The Grange at the Adelaide Hilton (233 Victoria Sq, City, tel: +61 (8) 8217 2000), under renowned chef Cheong Liew, serves up a masterfully presented dégustation menu with matching wines; Simon Bryant from the ABC TV series The Cook and the Chef serves up excellent regional food at the hotel’s Brasserie.

Adelaide Hilton
Sheriden Rhodes

Also try the Manse (142 Tynte St, North Adelaide, tel: +61 (8) 8267 4636) to sample Tim Montgomery’s modern take on French cuisine, or SOHO (73 Melbourne St, North Adelaide, tel: +61 (8) 8361 7646) for an intimate dinner. In Hyde Park, the Melting Pot (160 King William Rd, tel: +61 (8) 8373 2044) offers French-inspired dishes like steamed ocean trout with a brioche crust, served with curried velouté, olive oil poached egg and salmon caviar. Younger sibling Melt Pizzeria, next door (tel: +61 (8) 8272 8186), is the place to head for casual tapas and pizzas – we like the Italian sausage pizza with eggplant, olives, chilli, parsley and asiago. For more tapas, paella and creative sangrias, Mesa Lunga is a fab new space on the corner of Gouger and Morphett streets (tel: +61 (8) 8410 7617).

One of the city’s jewels is Ying Chow (114 Gouger St, City, tel: +61 (8) 8211 7998) – order the su rolls, tea-smoked duck and broad beans with tomato chutney! Just around the corner in Chinatown is institution T Chow (68 Moonta St, City, tel: +61 (8) 8410 1413), which has legendary quail, prawn cabbage rolls, T Chow Duck and a delicious oyster omelette. After dinner, wander over to the quaint Elephant Walk (76 Melbourne St, City, tel: +61 (8) 8267 2006) for coffee.

Drink

tasty latté
Sheriden Rhodes

There are plenty of places to slake your thirst in Adelaide, but here’s our pick of the hippest. Members-only Bar Cuba (70 Waymouth St, City, tel: +61 (8) 8231 2144), atop the Union Hotel, is first on the list. It claims to have Australia’s, if not the world’s, largest collection of rum, and owner Piers Schmidt has built the kind of bar he’d like to drink in: think white marble, gold, velvet and general luxury. If you can wangle entry, you’ll have plenty of leisure to soak up the indulgent atmosphere while manager Pat Allan serves up a killer mojito. Can’t get in? Try the Moulin Rouge–inspired Boho (27 Unley Rd, Parkside, tel: +61 (8) 8271 0274), decked out like a 1920s boudoir, and order a glass of wine while you sink into one of the velvet couches. For something rather different, head to Distill – the Health Bar (286 Rundle St, City, tel: +61 (8) 8227 0825), which packs in the city’s bright young things to drink its organic cocktails. In Adelaide’s west end, the Elysium Lounge (182 Hindley St, tel: +61 (8) 8212 9888) is great for classy cocktails; ale-lovers should head to the Colonist (44 The Parade, Norwood, tel: +61 (8) 8362 3736) for a few quiet pots.

Head for the hills

Bridgewater Mill
Photo: SATC/ Adam
Bruzzone

The perfect lazy Sunday afternoon in Adelaide must involve a visit to the Adelaide Hills, a mere 20 minutes’ drive from the CBD. Visit the home of Petaluma wine, Bridgewater Mill (Mt Barker Rd, Bridgewater, tel: +61 (8) 8339 9200), for wine tastings and a memorable contemporary Australian lunch by chef Le Tu Thai. Hahndorf Hill Winery (Lot 10 Pains Rd, Hahndorf, tel: +61 (8) 8388 7512) is another must, serving up local produce matched to its boutique wines. While you’re in Hahndorf, pick up some freshly made goat’s cheese from Udder Delights (91a Main Rd, tel: +61 (8) 8388 1588), then stop for a well-earned latte on the return journey at the Organic Market and Café (5 Druids Ave, Stirling, tel: +61 (8) 8339 7131).

Upcoming events

Tasting Australia (October 13–20) once again features a great line-up of international and Australian chefs, authors and TV presenters, including celebrity chefs Rick Stein and Madhur Jaffrey. www.tasting-australia.com.au

The 1st annual Adelaide International Guitar Festival (November 23 to December 2) features legends from many genres, including blues, jazz, classical, experimental, roots and world. Tickets and info, tel: 131246 (within Aust.)

JETSTAR’S ADELAIDE GETAWAY DEAL!

4 nights at the Hyatt Regency from AU$472*
Departing Melbourne (Avalon)
• Return economy class airfares
• Accommodation in a Hyatt Guest room On sale 01-31 August 2007.
Travel from 16 July to 22 September & 16 to 28 October 2007.
Visit www.jetstar.com/holidays or call 131 538
* Terms and Conditions
Prices are per person, twin share and are correct as at 01.08.07 but may change due to changes in surcharges, fees, taxes or airfares. 4-7 days advance purchase is required, depending on package. Transfers not included. Availability is limited, not available on all flights or days. All travel must be completed within travel periods specified. Jetstar’s general conditions for holiday packages and other conditions apply. Charges apply for additional services obtained through 131 538. See jetstar.com for details. License No: VIC 32696. Jetstar Airways Pty limited ABN 33 069 720 243.