Launceston 5 on 5

Whether you want art, sport, a budget holiday or something for the kids, Tasmania’s second city has it all

WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHY GABI MOCATTA

Stroll the streets of Launceston on a blue-sky, sunny day, and you’ll be hard-pressed not to fall in love. Tasmania’s graceful second city, set in an amphitheatre of hills around the Tamar River, is a fun, friendly place: down-to-earth yet increasingly sophisticated. We asked five Launcestonians to give us the inside word on their home town.

Dr Astrid
Wootton; The
bar at Mud Arty Launceston
Dr Astrid Wootton, manager and curator, the Design Centre

“Launceston has lots happening on the arty, groovy front,” says Wootton. Her list of must-sees naturally starts at home, at the Design Centre (cnr Tamar and Brisbane sts, tel: +61 (3) 6331 5506). “It’s Tasmania’s only dedicated space for [wood] craft and design,” she says, “and has a museum and a shop stocking fine furniture and craft.” Wootton also rates the Inveresk arts precinct (Invermay Rd, Inveresk, tel: +61 (3) 6323 3777. “They have great changing exhibitions, and afterwards you can pop into the Blue Café (2 Invermay Rd, tel: +61 (3) 6334 3133) for a good coffee,” Wootton says. “My favourite pâtisserie is Tant Pour Tant (226 Charles St, tel: +61 (3) 6334 9884). It has luscious French tarts and traditional gateaux made with exquisite attention to detail: they’re absolute works of art. Be quick, because they sell out towards the end of the day!” After a long day of gallery crawling, her pick of “groovy new restaurant” is Luck’s (70 George St, tel: +61 (3) 6334 8596) – once a butcher’s shop. For a nightcap, she recommends Mud Bar (28 Seaport Blv, tel: +61 (3) 6334 5066) on the waterfront.

The Mill Providore;
Flora de KantzowChic Launceston
Flora de Kantzow, owner, Hatherley House

“One of the wonderful things about Launceston is the heritage architecture,” says de Kantzow. “It gives the city such an elegant, old-world feel.” De Kantzow’s hip small hotel, Hatherley House (43 High St, tel: +61 (3) 6334 7727), was itself converted from an 1830s mansion.

She also recommends TwoFourTwo (242 Charles St, tel: +61 (3) 6331 9242), a former heritage bakery that’s now three super-chic apartments. “The furniture is all custom-designed from Tasmanian timber, and it’s close to great cafés and restaurants,” she says. Stillwater (Ritchies Mill, Patterson St, tel: +61 (3) 6331 4153) is de Kantzow’s choice as Launceston’s best restaurant. “Wonderful hosts, fantastic food and a lovely atmosphere in the old mill,” she says. “I love their slow-braised Flinders Island lamb.” And don’t miss the Mill Providore upstairs – Launceston’s best food shop – or the local wineries: “Take the Tamar Wine Route and have lunch at Daniel Alps at Strathlynn (95 Rosevears Rd, Rosevears, tel: +61 (3) 6330 2388). You’re surrounded by vineyards and oak trees. The food and the views are to die for.”

Rick PilkingtonSporty Launceston
Rick Pilkington, triathlete

“Launceston is a really sporty town,” says Pilkington. “On a Saturday the playing fields are full, and everyone’s on their bikes and running.” The focal point for outdoorsy types is Cataract Gorge, an exquisite slice of nature right in the middle of town. There’s rock climbing, white-water kayaking, mountain biking and endless trails. Trails also connect the gorge with Trevallyn Recreation Area. “[It has] Lake Trevallyn, where lots of triathletes train in summer, but you don’t have to be a sportsperson to enjoy it,” he says. “You can just drive right up, have a picnic and cool off in the water. It’s magic.” Launceston’s most popular cycling route is Launceston to Rosevears.

First basin at the Gorge“It’s 47km return from the CBD, following the West Tamar Highway out, and then turning onto Rosevears Drive,” says Pilkington. “We do it as a training ride, but it’s also a great leisurely day out and you can stop at one of the wineries along the way for lunch.” His top post-ride hangout is Aroma’s Fine Food and News (272 Charles St, tel: +61 (3) 6331 4150): “Great coffee and chocolate fudge cake!”

Damon Routley
at Burger Got
SoulCheap & Cheerful Launceston
Damon Routley, owner and manager, Burger Got Soul

Looking for a great meal in Launceston without spending a fortune? Venture to Burger Got Soul (243 Charles St, +61 (3) 6334 5204), where Damon Routley serves the best burger in town. “This is a fun, cool place where you can have a healthy meal for under AU$10,” says Routley. Prefer a bit of spice? Routley recommends Star of Siam (cnr Charles and Patterson sts, tel: +61 (3) 6331 2786), “a wonderfully authentic and good-value Thai restaurant. They do a fantastic green chicken curry”. For a night out, he tips Sporties on Charles (252 Charles St, tel: +61 (3) 6331 3968) as “a great pub that has free live music and a friendly atmosphere”. It’s perfect place to sample Launceston’s famous brew, Boag’s Premium. Die-hard fans won’t want to miss a visit to the Boag’s Centre for Beer Lovers (39 William St, tel: +61 (3) 6332 6300), which holds tours every weekday. Budget-conscious fashion-lovers should head to vintage clothing shop Time After Time (67 York St, +61 (3) 6334 5006). And if you want a day out that’s easy on the pocket, Routley’s pick is mini golf at the Tamar Valley Resort (7 Waldhorn Drv, Grindelwald, tel: +61 (3) 6330 0400). “I’ve been there for a lot of buck’s parties,” says Routley. “Fun, fun, fun.”

Sarah Black with Charlie Kid-Friendly Launceston
Sarah Black, owner and manager, the Mill Providore, and mother of Madelaine, 7, Harry, 5, and Charlie, 5 months

“I can’t think of anywhere I’d rather bring up a family,” says Black, who’s originally a Sydneysider. “One of the best things here for kids is the parks.” City Park (cnr Tamar and Brisbane sts) has Japanese macaques (monkeys) and a kids’ train. “[The kids] also love Tailrace Park, which has Kids Paradise (1 Waterfront Drv, Riverside, tel: +61 (3) 6334 0055), a huge activity centre. It’s indoors, so it’s perfect if it’s raining,” she says. Launceston’s beautiful gorge also has the famous Basin Chairlift (tel: +61 (3) 6331 5915). “My kids adore a ride on the chairlift,” says Black. “You can combine it with a day in the gorge. They can swim in the pool in summer and it’s a great place for picnics.”

A fun place to eat out with kids is Fish and Chips (30 Seaport Blv, tel: +61 (3) 6331 1999) at the Seaport. “They do beautiful tempura whiting, great calamari, and there’s a chalkboard inside for the kids to play on.”

For all your travel choices, go to www.jetstar.com

Gabi Mocatta says:

I was amazed by the natural beauty and friendliness of Launceston.

It’s the only city I’ve ever photographed where people came up to me and asked to have their photo taken; only the monkeys in City Park were photo-phobic!