Queensland’s capital city has had a dramatic renaissance

WORDS JOANNA HALL

Story Bridge & Brisbane skyline at night
Photo: Photolibrary/Stefan Mokrzecki

Brisbane has long been dubbed “just a big country town” – people used to say that you could fire a cannon down the main street on a Saturday afternoon and not hit anyone! In the past 10 years, though, Brissie has undergone a major transformation: this once-sleepy town is now lively and cosmopolitan, with more than a few surprises for visitors. We’ve uncovered 10 of the best.

Cruising the
Brisbane River
Photo: Ben Hall

THE BEST {NO 01}
Cruising

No trip to Brisbane is complete without a ride on the CityCat or City Ferry along the heart and soul of the city, the Brisbane River (tel: 13 12 30). A cruise along this meandering waterway is an inexpensive and relaxing way to get your bearings and appreciate the city’s physical beauty, and its majestic colonial-era buildings sitting comfortably among modern skyscrapers.
Further out, the city gives way to leafy suburbia, where Brisbanites cycle, walk and rollerblade along the river’s edge.

Cycling Goodwill Bridge
Photo: Ben Hall

THE BEST {NO 02}
Freewheel

Thanks to a comprehensive system of cycle paths stretching for around 400km, Brisbane is a bike rider’s dream come true. With traffic congestion in the CBD becoming a major problem, locals have embraced cycling not just for recreation, but as a fast and eco-friendly way to get about. One of the best rides is from the City Botanic Gardens to the University of Queensland – a distance of around 10km. Bikes can be hired for AU$20 per day from Brisbane Bicycle (87 Albert St, Brisbane, tel: +61 (7) 3229 2433).

South Bank beach
Photo: Courtesy of Brisbane
Tourism

THE BEST {NO 03}
The Southside

It’s hard to imagine Brisbane without the South Bank. This 2km stretch of river-front opposite the city centre was one of the first new developments, and helped kickstart the city’s vibrant growth – it’s still a good reflection of the “new” Brisbane. With its paths, grassy picnic areas, playgrounds, restaurants, live entertainment venues, and a man-made “beach” for kids and sun-worshippers alike, South Bank is Brissie’s urban playground.

Gallery of Modern Art
Photo: Ben Hall

THE BEST {NO 04}
Culture Vulture

Also on the South Bank, the Queensland Cultural Centre has become a major tourist attraction in its own right, as the focal point of the state’s festivals and exhibitions. The centre houses four of Brisbane’s major cultural venues: the Queensland Art Gallery and Gallery of Modern Art (tel: +61 (7) 3840 7303), the State Library of Queensland (tel: +61
(7) 3840 7810), the Queensland Museum and Sciencentre (tel: +61 (7) 3840 7555) and the Queensland Performing Arts Centre (tel: +61 (7) 3840 7444). Across the river, the Museum of Brisbane (City Hall, King George Square, Brisbane, tel: +61 (7) 3403 6363) offers a fascinating snapshot of the city’s heritage as well as its contemporary culture. Like most museums, it’s kid-friendly,and features special interactive programs to keep little hands busy.

Treasury Casino
Photo: Ben Hall

THE BEST {NO 05}
Walk This Way

Once you’ve cruised the river banks, pull on your walking shoes and explore the rest of the city on foot. Despite the development boom of the 1970s and 1980s – when a lot of historic buildings were torn down – there’s still more than enough colonial charm in the city centre to make a day’s walking worthwhile. Landmarks include City Hall, the Treasury Building (now a casino and bar), Queens Park with its statue of Queen Victoria, Parliament House and Customs House.

The Gun Shop Café
Photos: Ben Hall

THE BEST {NO 06}
Life Alfresco

With Brissie’s subtropical climate and balmy evenings, it’s no surprise that the café scene has become one of its big drawcards. Though the city centre has plenty of places to sit outdoors and enjoy a coffee, locals head straight to Brisbane’s inner suburbs for their caffeine fix. The Gun Shop Café (53 Mollison St, West End, tel: +61 (7) 3844 2241) is a brunch hotspot, as is depot, one of the hippest new eateries in Fortitude Valley’s Emporium complex (1000 Ann St, Fortitude Valley, tel: +61 (7) 3666 0188).

Brisbane Arcade
Photos: Ben Hall

THE BEST {NO 07}
Shop ’Til You Drop

It takes a lot of stamina and a little planning to shop seriously in Brisbane. Sure, in the CBD there are shopping arcades and the department store giants Myer and David Jones, but it’s the suburban boutiques, markets and shopping centres where you’ll really give your credit card a workout. Each area has something unique to offer shoppers; in Fortitude Valley (“the Valley” to the locals), enterprising retailers have fused fashion and art to create a super-cool market atmosphere.

Siana
Photo: Ben Hall

THE BEST {NO 08}
Food Glorious Food

Maybe Brisbane’s emergence as a foodie destination shouldn’t be a surprise, but still, the refrain from interstate and overseas visitors is “I didn’t know the restaurants were this good!” Whether it’s low-key noodle places in the Valley or refined, innovative cuisine by the river, you’ll be spoiled for choice. The Eagle Street Wharf complex on the river-front in the CBD is a great place to get started. Try Siana (Upper Plaza Level, Riparian Plaza, 71 Eagle St, tel: +61 (7) 3221 3887), which offers innovative Asian cuisine, superb cocktails and stunning views of the Story Bridge.

Photo: Courtesy of Brisbane

Tourism

THE BEST {NO 09}
Ups and Downs

Not to be outdone by Sydney’s Harbour Bridge climb, Brisbane’s own Story Bridge Adventure Climb (tel: + 61 (7) 3514 6900, or 1300 254 627) has been popular since it started in October 2005. The two-and-a-half-hour journey starts on the corner of Wharf and Main Streets at Kangaroo Point, and takes climbers up to the top of one of Brisbane’s most historic landmarks. From AU$110 for adults and AU$82.50 for kids. Abseiling down the Kangaroo Point Cliffs is also guaranteed to get your pulse racing! Riverlife Adventure Centre (Naval Stores, Kangaroo Point, tel: +61 (7) 3891 5766) offers sessions from AU$29.

The Met
Photo: Ben Hall

THE BEST {NO 10}
Night Fever

After a day of sightseeing, shopping and eating, it’s tempting to have a quiet night in. Don’t do it! After dark is when Brisbane really comes to life – especially at weekends. Brisbanites follow a “work to live, don’t live to work” philosophy and it’s easy to get swept up in their enthusiasm. Cocktails and clubbing have taken off in a big way, and the number of stylish bars is growing. Clubbing favourite Family (8 McLachlan St. Fortitude Valley, tel: +61 (7) 3852 5000) has won numerous national awards; if you’re after somewhere new to see and be seen, head to The Met (256 Wickham St, Fortitude Valley, tel: +61 (7) 3257 2557).