Bangkok’s moveable feast is a gastronomic adventure – don’t be shy!

WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHY JOHN LANDER

On nearly every street corner in Bangkok something’s being barbecued, steamed or ladled. Thais spend much of their lives outdoors, and unsurprisingly, much of the city’s best food can be found on the street. You can get an assortment of treats – from artichokes and corncobs to peanuts and insects – from street carts and bicycles. What’s more, they’re around at all times of the day and night – there’s no tradition of set meal-times in Thailand, other than the compulsory midnight snack!

Thais believe that food should be an experience for all five senses: touch, smell, taste, sound and sight, and their alfresco snacking fits with the Thai notion of ‘sanook’, or fun! After a few days sampling Bangkok’s delicacies, you’ll agree with Thais that there’s no sincerer love than the love of food.

Takeaway Fruit

The “ting-ting-ting” sound on the streets of Bangkok isn’t an ice cream van, it’s a fruit cart – the most popular and common snack here is fresh fruit. Visitors go wild over the prices of passionfruit, papaya and mangoes – fruit that’s usually expensive back home is cheap and available year-round here. A bag of mixed fruit (melon, pineapple, papaya) starts at just 10 baht (AU$0.37).

mixed fruit 10 baht (AU$0.37)

1 corn cob
10 baht
(AU$0.37) After you’ve polished off a few of your favourites, it’s fun to try some of the more exotic ones. Dragonfruit are the pretty pink things with the green tapering spikes. While they’re vivid and wild-looking on the outside, the insides are mild and sweet. Mangosteens – known as the “queen of fruits” – are also delicious. Their deep purple shells take a bit of work to crack open, but it’s well worth it: inside are tart, bittersweet sections of juicy flesh. Envelope-pushers should tuck into a piece of durian. Though they have a famously pungent smell and huge prickly shells, their flavour has earned them the nickname “king of fruits”.

som tam
20 baht (AU$0.75)

Smells Like Chicken

Who can resist barbecued chicken, especially when it’s jazzed up with a little Thai zing? Bangkok is a city where the edge of the road isn’t a kerb, it’s a barbecue grill. No need for neon here: the aroma pulls in more punters than a sign ever could. The usual marinade of turmeric, garlic, pepper, chilli and a dash of oil is used, but most Thai cooks have their own secret recipes. And don’t forget the tiny bag of sweet and sour sauce for dipping! All this costs around 20 baht (AU$0.75) depending on the size of the bird, and is always served with a warm Thai smile.

grilled fish
20 baht (AU$0.75)

Hawking Noodles

Thailand’s national dish, pad thai, is offered at every turn. Though the recipe varies slightly from place to place, the classic dish consists of dried shrimp, noodles, tofu, radish and egg. Add a sprinkling of chopped chives and peanuts on top and you have lunch for 20 baht (AU$0.75). An array of condiments in the four basic flavours – hot, sour, salty and sweet – is always served: expect to find jars of sliced chilli in vinegar, chilli powder, sugar and fish sauce. Sprinkle a bit of each on your noodles to suit your tastebuds. Or try the deluxe version of pad thai, wrapped in a wafer-thin omelette

Hot Tip

Which noodle stand whips up the tastiest tucker? Look for the stalls with a queue. Though you may have to wait a few more minutes to be served, it’ll be worth it

WHERE TO SNACK AFTER DARK

Bangkok’s markets are magnets, drawing in roving vendors from all over town to set up shop after hours. In central Bangkok, the Suan Lum Night Bazaar (next to Lumpini Park, near Lumpini Metro Station) is a feast for the eyes as well as the palate but be quick - the Bazaar is closing in the next few months. Chatuchak Market, aka the Weekend Market, is well known for having some of the best hawker food in town. The Chao Phraya River ferry piers also have a good assortment of food carts hovering around, in case travellers feel peckish. Tha Chang Pier (the express boat stop for the Grand Palace) is one of the liveliest.