A survival guide to Thailand’s New Year, when the kingdom gets wet and wild

WORDS DENG FUQUAN
PHOTOGRAPHY THEN CHIH WEY

Thailand’s temples are the
centre of traditional
celebrations, while the
city streets are a hotbed
of more raucous activities
Photo: Tourism Authority
of Thailand

Turn up in Thailand between 13 and 15 April, and you might wonder if the normally gentle, mild-mannered locals have all had personality transplants. Thailand’s New Year, known as Songkran, is the one time on the calendar when the kingdom really lets loose with boisterous festivities, often stretching on for an entire week.

The origins of the Thai New Year lie in Buddhist beliefs, ancient astrology and the solar calendar. Songkran – which in Sanskrit means the shift of the sun from one side of the zodiac to the other – is celebrated when the sun moves from
Photo: Tourism Authority
of Thailand

Pisces to Aries, signalling a new astrological year. Traditionally, it’s a time of spiritual renewal, when people give thanks for the acts of kindness they’ve received and reaffirm the bonds of family and community.

More famously though, it’s known as the “water festival” after the public water fights that erupt all over the country. Water, a symbol of renewal, is believed to cleanse the sorrows of the previous year and invite rain for the new year, to ensure a bountiful harvest. So, the Thais make water-balloon bombs and arm themselves with water pistols to spray any and every unsuspecting passer-by. Fortunately, April is the hottest month of the year, so getting doused is virtually a pleasure!

Photo: Tourism Authority
of Thailand

On the first of Song-kran’s four official days, Wan Sungkharn Long, houses are cleaned and swept. On the second day, Wan Nao, food is prepared as offerings to monks for the next day.

The third day is New Year’s Day, Wan Payawan, which is celebrated by visiting the temple, presenting food and clothing to the monks, and bathing the Buddha image with jasmine-scented water. People also bring along sand, which is heaped into small pagoda shapes and decorated with colourful flags and flowers, and take part in good luck rituals. Head to any temple in the early morning, about 6am, to watch the parade of monks receiving their donated food.

On the last day, Wan Parg Bee, homage is paid to ancestors and elders. Water is gently poured over the hands or shoulders of an elder while they recite blessings and good wishes for the New Year. From this day on the havoc really breaks out and the water spraying becomes water soaking. Centres of mayhem during the day include Bangkok’s Khaosan Road and Sanam Luang, in front of the Grand Palace. At night, the Silom area is the best place to be – though you’ll get splashed wherever you go!

But it’s all in good humour, so have sanook (Thai for fun) and don’t forget your water pistols!

SURVIVOR SONGKRAN

1.Wrap your wallet, watch, travel papers and mobile in a plastic bag. Not glamorous but safe.

2.Wear light clothes and sandals – forget jeans, trainers, leather shoes or anything else slow-drying. It’s a good idea to bring a few extra sets of clothes to change into at the end of the day. And girls, unless you’re an exhibitionist it’s best to avoid wearing white!

3.If you want to minimise being soaked, take taxis, the skytrain or the subway – motorcycles, tuk-tuks and non-air-conditioned buses are hot targets for splashing.

4.Take a break when you’re tired, and find a spot to rest and watch the fun. Down a beer or a hot drink, stay away from fans and air-conditioners if you’re feeling chilled, then hit the streets to get wet all over again!

5.Dump the umbrella and raincoat – during Songkran you simply can’t avoid getting wet or dusted with talcum powder once you step out of your hotel. Be a sport, smile and get into the festive spirit!