Thai Cuisine

Riverside dining doesn’t have to cost a fortune in Bangkok. Live it up like royalty at these five great restaurants

WORDS & PHOTOS BY VICTOR PAUL BORG

Thailand’s capital can, on occasions, feel like one giant mosh-pit. In this city of 10 million you’re rarely alone. But head down to one of the riverside restaurants on the banks of the winding Chao Phraya river for dinner and you could be forgiven for thinking you’ve landed in a different city, such is the calm that inhabits these peaceful banks.

With the noise and bustle held far back you’re a world away. In the evenings, the river is one of the quietest places to be in Bangkok, especially since the best restaurants on the riverfront are situated in the old part of town, where the most prominent buildings are the temple complexes and the dramatic glistening stupas of the Grand Palace.

In the evenings, the river is one
of the quietest places to be in Bangkok.

High-rises are few and far between, and the fringes of old wooden houses built over the water on stilts offer a tranquil and romantic backdrop that elevates dinner to something special.

There are not many restaurants on the riverfront, and few lights — the houses skulk in semi-darkness and the black body of water silently slithering past is a mesmerising sight.

Begin a new romance with Thailand’s food and the river at our pick of five restaurants that best represent the range of Bangkok’s many dining experiences:

SUPATRA RIVER HOUSE

If you fancy an upscale yet affordable dinner, this is the place to book your table. The setting is plush and Thai, with beautifully patterned tiles and handsome wood fixtures. The wine list is huge, service is excellent, presentation is artistic, and the sublime background music completes the romantic atmosphere.

But it’s the food that will impress the most. The menu focuses on seafood and ranges from classic to creative dishes. You can have simple but beautifully grilled seafood, including snapper and lobster, served with different chilli sauces, all fresh and expertly grilled on charcoal.

But if your tastebuds are game, opt for something more creative such as seafood dumplings in green curry; skewers of salmon served with curry peanut sauce; deep-fried soft-shell crab served with a garlic and pepper sauce; or scallops in red curry.

If you fancy a drink with your meal, try ordering a Thai wine: the restaurant stocks wine by one of the best modern wineries in Thailand, Khao Yai wines. Like other Thai wines, Khao Yai wines are fruity, low in acidity and tannins, and slightly sweet, making them the ideal accompaniment for spicy food (traditional imported wines tend to taste bitter with spicy-sweet Thai dishes).

266 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arunamarin Rd., tel: +66 (2) 411 0305/874.
(Located on the Western side of the river, there is a shuttle boat after 6pm from Maharaj Pier, near the Grand Palace).
Open daily from 11am-2.30pm; 5.30-11pm.
Price range: about THB600 (AU$22) per person.

SALA RIM NAAM

For a meal in grand style, the flagship restaurant of The Oriental, Bangkok is in a class of its own. On the terrace perched over the river, a swanky interior recreates the quintessential Thai setting. Tables are low, seating is on the ground with pillows for back support, and there are traditional Thai dancers in the evening to lull you into relaxation. The service is professional, and the wine list includes labels from two of the top Thai wineries: Chateau De Loei and Siam Winery.

The menu includes classical dishes such as coconut curries and Thai-style salads, as well as more creative dishes like steamed Thai dumplings filled with herbed minced chicken and peanuts; deep-fried chicken wings with minced chicken and prawn stuffing; and even a delicious Laos-inspired dish — steamed fish curry mousse infused with dill and steamed in banana leaf.

The style of cooking is reminiscent of traditional royal cooking: lots of curry sauces that are low on spiciness, rather sweet, and full of flavours that linger on the palate. The curry pastes and chilli sauces are all made in-house to ensure distinctiveness, quality and full flavour.

The Oriental Bangkok, Oriental Ave., tel: +66 (2) 236 0400.
Open daily from noon to 2.30pm; 4.30-10.45pm.
Price range: about THB800 (AU$29) per person.

Photos: Victor Paul Borg

KHAILOM-CHOM-SA-PHUN

This cheery place is always full-house for dinner and with good reason: the menu is packed with diverse dishes and there’s a live band in the evenings stomping out a mixture of Thai and Western classics.

Among the traditional dishes, the soft-shell crab in curry is excellent, and so is the snakehead fish cooked in tamarind and water mimosa (it tastes better than it sounds), and served in a hotpot. You can also order barbecued seafood but we recommend a mixture of dishes for the most satisfying dining experience.

As with most riverfront restaurants, seafood dominates the menu.

Any meal should include one of the refreshing Thai-style salads — such as salad with mushrooms or herbs or coconut palm tips.

Go Thai by ordering a sampling of dishes, such as one of the platters — vegetable crudités and wedges of deep-fried mackerel with dips made from crab or shrimp. The lobster dishes are exquisite, served either with butter or black bean sauce, and ostrich is also on the menu — either stir-fried in black pepper or served on a sizzling hot plate.

11/3 Samsen Soi 3, Watsampraya, Phranakon, tel: +66 (2) 628 8382.
Open daily from 11am-1am.
Price range: about THB400 (AU$14) per person.

TA CHANG

First the bad news: this old Thai-style restaurant comes with loud, blaring karaoke which attracts boisterous groups of Thais who visit to eat, drink and sing.

The restaurant itself is a stand-alone building that is positioned over the water and well set out — a covered concrete structure with open sides — although the low roof gives it a claustrophobic feel that is emphasised by the clutter of dense tables. But never mind the décor and noise because the good news is the food is tasty and relatively inexpensive.

As with most riverfront restaurants, seafood dominates the menu. There are delicacies such as deep-fried shrimp patties; shrimp steamed in lemon and chilli; oysters on sizzling hot plate; whole grilled sea bass encrusted with salt and chilli; and lots of salads and soups.

There are also old favourites like chicken with cashew nuts, plus our picks: delicious baby crab in a hotpot of tamarind and water mimosa; sea bass in a hotpot of lime and chilli; and the equally good tamarind soup with shrimps and coconut palm tips, which will have you noisily slurping up every last drop. Just arrive early to avoid the crowds.

Naphralan Rd., tel: +66 (2) 623 5659.
Open daily from 11am-10pm.
Price range: about THB200 (AU$7) per person.

TA LING BAR

Set in a charming riverside house, this new restaurant may be small in size but it’s big on personality: the rustic décor has artistic accessories, such as sculptures, paintings and funky lamps, while the concept suits us to a tee: dinner plus a place to drink with friends.

Among the selection of curries and soups, the best is a spicy tamarind-infused soup with chunks of salted fish. If you like it spicy, try the raw shrimps covered in chopped chilli and garlic with fish sauce.

Another creative concoction is the catfish salad: the fish is minced and deep-fried, and served over spicy-sweet shredded papaya.

The portions are rather small which encourages you to order an array of dishes to share. This suits the place well as it’s a good place to stop and linger, and just keep on ordering more dishes to go with the drinks, such as snacks like cashew nuts with herbs and preserved shrimps.

The fact that the river is so close by — the terrace is set a metre above the water level — is another allure, making you feel so close to the river that you can imagine you’re floating, especially after a few drinks.

Soi Wang Lang, Arun Rd. (take the boat, which runs until 11pm),
tel: +66 (2) 412 3993.
Open Tuesdays to Sundays, from 4pm to midnight.
Price range: about THB150 (AU$5) per person.

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